If you follow rue Riquet, home to a selection of go-to spots in in Paris' latest up-and-coming neighborhood, you'll end up in the 19th arrondissement at the Bassin de la Villette. It's on this embankment that you will find, every Thursday and Sunday morning, Marché Joinville.
I visited the market on a recent rainy day, one of the most solidly down-pouring days that we've had this season. I Dodged umbrellas and the elderly, who often walk into you or cut in line while shopping- especially when dry spots under the market awnings are at a premium.
As usual, my quest was to find a local farmer. After a few rounds up and down the market I feared I had made the rain soaked bike ride to the market for nothing. Fruits and vegetables from Morocco and Spain filled the market stands and cardboard boxes and out-of-season produce were aplenty.
Signs of the disappearance of farmers from Paris markets were at every turn, until I stumbled upon a stand that gave me hope even when spotted from yards away. I approached the earth-covered piles of apples, celery root, carrots, potatoes, and beets, quickly confirming that I had found an Ile-de-France farmer!
The Cattiaux family has a farm in Le Plessis-Bouchard in the Val d'Oise department located just north of Paris. The farm is less than 30 kilometers (about 20 miles) from the city, and a wide range of seasonal vegetables are grown on site and brought directly to the market.
I stocked up on apples, beets, radicchio, and broccoli all for under 6 euro. See- fresh food can be affordable, too!
Place de Joinville, 75019
m° Crimée (line 7)
Open Thursday and Sunday 7-14h30