I love the Ledru-Rolling neighborhood and I try to make a habit of stopping by. I would advise any hungry visitor of this coin to grab a great croissant at Blé Sucré or to dine at Le Cotte Rôti while strolling this quartier.
Recently I got my hands dirty visiting my friend Terresa's community garden which is just a few blocks away from Ledru-Rolling and the place Aligre, where you'll find this month's marché.
The Marché Couvert Beauvau is the covered market that sits next to the outdoor Marché Aligre, which offers a wide variety of fruits, vegetables and flea market fare. If you're looking for a nice selection of produce, I'd hit up the outdoor market. But don't miss the discoveries that await undercover at Marché Beauvau.
First of all, the seemingly endless cheese counters, stocked with regional artisinal cheeses of all sorts. There is also a wide selection of lovely Italian hard cheeses, like pecorino and parmasean.
Meat lovers will also find their cut of meat at either of the boucheries at the marché and just in time for our late Summer weather, overheated shoppers can pick up some artisinal and all natural ice cream made by Terre Adélice.
My all time favorite find at Marché Beauvau, however, was -in typical drunkard fashion- the beer stand. Stocked with beers from around Europe and the world, this is a great spot to pick up Belgian brews and Germans quaffs of all different styles.
I'm lucky to have a Meilleurs Vins Bio boutique down the right down the street and I'm even luckier that they stock my favorite brewed-in-Brussels beer Cantillon.
This spontaneously fermented beer is an aquired taste which quickly becomes an addiction. Les Meilleurs Vins Bio carries the Gueuze Cantillon variety, but the beer stand at Marché Beauvau also carries their Kreik and Rosé de Grambinus, the raspberry flavored lambic.
All this talk of adult beverages is making me thirsty, and luckily one of my favorite watering holes in Paris is also located in the Aligre area. The Baron Rouge is a wine bar that makes one feel like a kid in a candy shop, it's extensive wine list contains no glasses over 3,50 euro, with most verres hovering around 2,50 euro.
The Baron Rouge is a great spot for an apero, and if you're feeling nippish you cna order an assiette of the fromage from the market next door as well as some charcuterie.
The Baron Rouge gets bustly so get there early because sitting space is limited and they close their doors shortly after the Summer sunset (16h on Sundays and 22h Tues-Sat). If you don't get enough wine sur place the bar has a to-go option: bottles and bulk wine!
Grab anyone of their bottles, many of which are biodynamic, or get a consigned bottle and choose a barrel. Sold by the liter, prices range from 2,80 - 3,60 euro for a reds, whites, and rosés. Just in case you missed it the first time- bulk wine straight from the barrell. To take home with you. That should be a regular part of your life, shouldn't it?
Place d'Aligre 75012
m° Ledru-Rollin (line 8)
8h-13h & 16h-19h30 Tue-Sat
Le Baron Rouge
1 rue Théophile-Roussel
m° Ledru-Rollin (line 8)
10h-15h & 17h-22h Tue-Fri.