In Season: Les Tubercules

A variety of Tubercules, or tuber vegetables, on sale at Marché Bio de Raspail

A variety of Tubercules, or tuber vegetables, on sale at Marché Bio de Raspail

Tuber vegetables or les tubercules abound in markets this time of the year. Some tubers really resemble the gnarled and earthy roots that they are- salsify, celeriac, and scorzonera come to mind- while other forms may be more familiar and palatable to us, like sweet potatoes, radish, and carrots.

I’ve written about tubers throughout the chilly seasons of autumn and winter, such as beets, turnips, and rutabaga. I’ve also fallen for a few new favorites – enjoying parsnips several times a week and finding sunchokes at restaurants in San Francisco and the markets of Paris.

Rutabaga, Parsnips, and Sunchokes at Marché Bio de Raspail

Rutabaga, Parsnips, and Sunchokes at Marché Bio de Raspail

Over the past few months it has been rare that I leave a market without a selection of tubers tucked in with my winter greens and seasonal apples and pears. Some more recent tuber sightings include the cerefeuil tubereuxor tuberous chervil and the persil tubereux, or tuberous parsley- two varieties that are popular in France and apparently difficult to find outside the hexagon.

Persil Tubereux, or tuberous parsley, at a biocoop in the 17th

Persil Tubereux, or tuberous parsley, at a biocoop in the 17th

It seems only natural to take advantage of having such a rare vegetable within our reach, so I picked up a few of the tuberous chervil variety when I had the occasion.

When asking producteurs how to prepare a tubercule their suggestions are simple and center on traditional winter dishes such as potages and purées.

However, take note: soups and mashes may not be suitable to every tuber (salsify soup? mashed beets?) so check some sources to see what is the best application for the tuber at hand. This is a general overview some tubers you may find while shopping in Paris markets, but the recipes that follow will be more suited to certain types, such a potato and parsnip variety or a mixture of these varieties with a selection of other tubers such as the tuberous chervil or tuberous parsley.

Super expensive tuberous chervil at Marché St. Eustache-Les Halles

Super expensive tuberous chervil at Marché St. Eustache-Les Halles

For me, there is nothing more comforting than mashed root veggies, be it basic potatoes or  another (t)uber-French variety, purées bring the warmth I’m missing on these rainy days.

In times of great need, I will also whip up a batch of gravy that I perfected in my college days, and add it atop my mountain of mashed root veg. If you want to give it the old college try, I’ve added my recipe here (I was vegan then & used margarine in place of butter- but the recipe below includes butter).

Locally grown sunchokes spotted in Switzerland

Locally grown sunchokes spotted in Switzerland

A few notes: Use a rough brush when cleaning tubers- especially the gnarly root varieties- dirt can cling to the skin and creep in the crevices, so spend some time washing these veggies before preparing them.

I found tuberous chervil at the Marché St. Eustache-Les Halles, where it was outrageously expensive (€39,80/kilo !!). I have seen other varieties of similar tuber varieties, such as the tuberous parsley at my local biocoop and a handful of markets, so I think you can find a more reasonably priced elsewhere.

More chic and cher tubers at Marché St. Eustache-Les Halles

More chic and cher tubers at Marché St. Eustache-Les Halles

What: Les Tubercules, (Tubers)

When: February 14, 2013

Where: A market near you

How: Carefully wash you tuber to remove all dirt. To make a purée you can either follow the instructions for my Parsnip and Rutabage Purée, or you can omit the broth and simply bring your tuber to a boil in salted water, cook until tender, drain (leaving some water in reserve) and then mix with a hand mixer, adding butter and leftover salted water until you have the desired consistency.

If you are making a hearty purée, with potatoes or parsnips for example, you can serve it with this nutritional yeast fortified gravy:

Simple Vegetarian Gravy

Ingredients:

1 1/2 cup miso (use a miso cube to make the stock)

2 tbsps butter

1/2 cup chopped onions

2 tbsps flour (more as needed)

2 tbsps soy sauce

1 tbsp nutritional yeast

Steps:

1) Heat up butter. Once melted, add chopped onions and cook until just brown, 2-3 minutes.

2) Whisk in your 2 tbsps of flour, stir until combined- keep stirring to avoid burning the mixture.

3) Slowly add boiling miso broth. Stir as you add.

4) If the gravy isn’t thick enough, you can stir in more flour until you’ve reached the desired thickness.

5) Stir in soy sauce followed by nutritional yeast flakes.

6) Serve hot, atop or aside your tuber purée.

 

2 thoughts on “In Season: Les Tubercules

  1. I think that’s about the going rate for chervil root – I’ve bought it from La Ruche Qui Dit Oui a few times, and it’s about the same (3.99 for 100g or so). But they are so freaking delicious, with such a lovely potatoey texture, I don’t hesitate to spend so much on them!

    p.s. Nice to meet you, however briefly, at the food lecture last week.

    • Hi Camille- I agree that I did eat my words a bit when I ate the chervil root- I made a puree with the capucine potatoes I bought the same day. It was delicious with a nice bite and complex taste. Will save for a special occasion! What ruche do you go to? The Les Halles vendor was really rude, would rather not go to him again!

      Was nice to meet you, too! I’m sure our paths will cross again- maybe over some kale!!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

     

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>

Current day month ye@r *